Your Kei Truck Just Got Delivered: Here's What to Check First

TL;DR: When your kei truck rolls off the trailer, resist the urge to drive it around the block. Photograph everything before it moves. Verify the VIN matches your paperwork. Check for shipping damage, fluid leaks, and tire pressure. Test that it starts, shifts, and engages 4WD. Confirm you have every document you need for registration. Then schedule the full fluid service before you put real miles on it. This checklist takes 30 to 45 minutes and can save you thousands in disputed damage claims and mechanical surprises.

Your kei truck just showed up on a flatbed. Maybe you bought it from a dealer across the state, maybe an importer shipped it from a port warehouse, or maybe it came straight off the boat from Japan through a broker. Regardless of how it got to your driveway, the next 30 minutes matter more than most new owners realize.

This is not the pre purchase inspection you should have done before money changed hands. And it is not the full maintenance service you will do in the garage this weekend. This is the in between moment: the truck is here, it is yours, and you need to verify that what showed up matches what you paid for before the delivery driver leaves and your window for damage claims closes.

Document Everything Before It Moves

The single most important thing you can do when your kei truck arrives is photograph it before anyone touches it. This sounds paranoid. It is not. Shipping damage disputes are common with imported vehicles, and photos taken while the truck is still strapped to the trailer are the only evidence that holds up.

Walk around the truck and take photos of every panel, the roof, the bed floor, each corner of the bumpers, and both mirrors. Shoot the odometer through the windshield. Get underneath if you can and photograph the frame rails, the exhaust, and the underside of the bed. Take a wide shot showing the truck on the trailer with the delivery vehicle visible. As freight inspection best practices recommend, document the condition before signing any proof of delivery.

If the truck came from a Japanese auction, you should have the auction sheet with the truck's grade and condition notes. Pull that out now. Compare what you see to what the sheet says. A Grade 4 truck should have minimal cosmetic issues. A Grade 3 is acceptable with some wear. If the auction sheet says "no damage" but the fender has a fresh dent, that happened in transit and needs to be documented.

Photograph any discrepancies between the auction sheet and the actual condition. These photos are your leverage if you need to file a shipping damage claim with the transport company or importer.

Verify the VIN and Paperwork

Before you get excited about starting it up, grab your paperwork and match it to the truck. On most kei trucks, the VIN plate is on the firewall under the cab or on the door jamb. On Suzuki Carry models, it is typically on the driver side door pillar. On mid engine trucks like the Honda Acty and Subaru Sambar, check the engine bay access panel area.

Confirm that the VIN on the truck matches every document in your packet:

1. Bill of sale or purchase agreement
2. Japanese Export Certificate (if importing directly)
3. DOT form HS-7 (Declaration of Conformity)
4. EPA form 3520-1 (Declaration of Importation)
5. CBP Form 7501 (Customs Entry Summary) if applicable
6. Title or MSO (Manufacturer's Statement of Origin) from the selling dealer

A single digit mismatch between the VIN on the truck and the VIN on your title will turn your DMV visit into a nightmare. Catch it now while the seller or importer can fix it, not when you are standing at the counter with a clerk who has never seen a Japanese chassis number before. Our import guide covers the full paperwork chain in detail.

If you bought from a domestic dealer, you may only have a title and bill of sale. That is fine. Just make sure the VIN matches and the title is clean with no liens.

Check for Shipping Damage and Leaks

Now that the truck is off the trailer, do a slow walk around looking specifically for damage that happened in transit. Shipping damage is different from the wear and tear you accepted when you bought the truck.

Look for:

1. Fresh scratches or dents without weathering or rust (these happened recently)
2. Cracked or broken mirrors, marker lights, or tail lights
3. Scuffed or torn bed rails from tie down straps
4. Broken or missing cab accessories (antennas, wiper arms, mud flaps)
5. Fluid puddles under the truck (oil, coolant, brake fluid, fuel)

Get under the truck with a flashlight. Look at the oil pan, the transmission, the transfer case, and the differential housings. A thin film of oil seepage on an old gasket is normal. A drip forming on a drain plug means someone did not tighten it after the last service. A puddle of coolant means a hose let go during transport and you should not start the engine until you find the source.

Check the exhaust system from the manifold back to the tip. Kei truck exhaust pipes sit low and exposed. A pothole during transport or a forklift bump at the port can bend or crack the exhaust. Look for fresh scrapes on the bottom of the pipes and any joints that look separated.

If you find damage that was not disclosed or noted on the auction listing, take close up photos and contact the seller or transport company immediately. Most shipping insurance claims have short filing windows.

Test Start and Listen

With the damage inspection done, put the key in and turn it to the ON position without starting. Watch the dashboard. Every warning light should illuminate briefly during the bulb check and then go off. Pay attention to the oil pressure light, the charge light, and the engine temperature gauge.

Now start it up. A 660cc three cylinder that has been sitting on a boat and a flatbed for weeks is going to sound rough for the first 30 seconds. That is expected. What you are listening for is anything abnormal beyond the cold start rattle:

1. Persistent ticking or knocking that does not fade after 30 seconds (top end or bearing issues)
2. A high pitched squealing that does not stop (belt tension or alternator bearing)
3. White smoke that continues after warmup (head gasket or coolant intrusion)
4. Blue smoke (oil burning, common on the Subaru Sambar with worn valve stem seals)
5. A rough idle that does not settle (vacuum leaks, fouled plugs, or fuel delivery problems)

Let the engine warm up for five minutes. Watch the temperature gauge climb to the normal range and stabilize. If it keeps climbing past the midpoint, shut it off immediately. Overheating is the fastest way to kill a 660cc engine, and it happens quickly because these motors have tiny cooling systems with almost no thermal mass. Cooling system failures are the number one engine killer on these trucks.

While it warms up, turn on every electrical system: headlights (low and high beam), turn signals, hazard lights, brake lights, reverse lights, wipers, washer fluid, horn, heater fan, and dome light. These are the items your state's safety inspection will check, and experienced owners on MiniTruckTalk recommend testing them before your first trip to the DMV.

Test the Drivetrain

With the engine warm, it is time to test the drivetrain. You do not need to take it on the highway. You need a flat driveway or a quiet parking lot.

Depress the clutch and shift through every gear. First through fifth (or fourth on older models), plus reverse. Each gear should engage cleanly without grinding or excessive resistance. On Honda Acty trucks, a notchy second gear is a known characteristic of the E07A transmission, but outright grinding means synchro wear.

Drive it slowly in first gear, then second. Feel the clutch engagement point. It should be smooth and progressive, not grabby or slipping. If the clutch does not engage until the pedal is almost fully released, the clutch disc is worn. Not a crisis, but a $300 to $500 repair to budget for.

Now test four wheel drive. Shift the transfer case into 4WD High and drive in a straight line on a loose surface like gravel or grass. You should feel the front wheels engage. Turn the wheel slightly and feel for the binding that confirms the front axle is locked in. Switch to 4WD Low. The truck should crawl at idle speed without stalling or shuddering. If the transfer case will not engage or pops out of gear, you have vacuum line issues (most common cause), actuator problems, or internal wear. As the r/keitruck community frequently notes, a truck where 4WD does not work is worth significantly less than a fully functional one.

On Daihatsu Hijet and Subaru Sambar models equipped with a diff lock, engage it on soft ground and confirm it locks. You will feel the truck resist turning. Disengage and confirm it releases. A stuck diff lock will tear up your driveway.

Check the Brakes

While you are driving it around slowly, test the brakes. Press the pedal firmly. It should feel solid, not spongy or pulsating. The truck should stop in a straight line without pulling to one side. If the pedal goes soft or sinks to the floor, the brake fluid is old (almost guaranteed on a freshly imported truck) or there is a leak in the system.

Apply the parking brake on a slight incline and take your foot off the brake pedal. The truck should hold. If it creeps, the parking brake cable needs adjustment or the rear shoes are glazed. Neither is expensive, but both are safety issues.

A complete brake fluid flush is part of the day one service covered in the maintenance guide. Do not trust old brake fluid regardless of how the pedal feels. As Hagerty explains, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, and 25 year old brake fluid has a significantly lower boiling point than fresh fluid. It will feel fine until you need to brake hard on a downhill and the fluid boils.

Check Tire Condition and Pressure

Kei trucks run small tires (typically 12 or 13 inch) that are easy to overlook but critical to get right. Check the tire pressure on all four tires. Standard pressure for most kei trucks is 28 to 29 PSI. Tires that sat deflated during ocean shipping can develop flat spots that cause vibration at speed. If the tires were flat or near flat during transport, they may need to be replaced even if the tread looks fine.

Check the tire age. Look for the DOT code on the sidewall. The last four digits indicate the week and year of manufacture. For example, 2198 means week 21 of 1998. According to NHTSA tire aging guidance, tires over 10 years old should be replaced regardless of tread depth. Rubber compounds degrade with age, and old tires can delaminate or blow out without warning. Our kei truck tire guide covers sizing, brands, and what to upgrade to.

Check the spare tire too. Many kei trucks carry the spare under the bed or behind the cab. It is often the most neglected tire on the truck and may be completely flat or missing entirely.

Gather Your Registration Requirements

With the physical inspection done, shift your attention to getting this thing legal. Registration requirements vary wildly by state. Some states title and register kei trucks as standard motor vehicles. Some classify them as off highway vehicles. Some restrict them to roads under 35 mph. And a few still will not register them at all. Check the state legality guide for your specific state's rules.

What you will generally need at the DMV:

1. Title or equivalent ownership document with matching VIN
2. Bill of sale with purchase price (for sales tax calculation)
3. Proof of insurance (get this before your DMV visit)
4. Your state's vehicle inspection certificate if required
5. Federal import documents (HS-7, EPA 3520-1) if you imported directly
6. Cash or check for title fees, registration fees, and sales tax

Some states require a VIN verification by law enforcement before registration. Some require an emissions test (which kei trucks are usually exempt from due to age). Some require a safety inspection. Call your DMV ahead of time. As CBP's vehicle import guide notes, having all federal documentation organized before your DMV visit prevents costly delays. Explain that you are registering a 25+ year old Japanese imported vehicle. Ask what forms and inspections they require. This phone call saves you from making multiple trips with the wrong paperwork.

Schedule the Full Service

Your delivery day inspection tells you whether the truck arrived safely and functions as expected. It does not replace the comprehensive first service that every imported kei truck needs. Every fluid in that truck is old. The timing belt service history is probably unknown. The rubber hoses are compromised. None of this is visible during a 30 minute driveway check.

Within the first week of delivery, schedule or perform the complete day one service from the maintenance guide:

1. Drain and replace all fluids (engine oil, transmission, differentials, brake fluid, coolant)
2. Replace the timing belt if service history is unknown
3. Inspect and replace cracked hoses, vacuum lines, and accessory belts
4. Check spark plugs and replace if fouled
5. Grease all chassis lubrication points

Budget $300 to $500 in parts for a DIY service, or $600 to $1,000 at a shop. This is the price of admission for owning a 25+ year old imported vehicle. It is also the single best investment you can make in the truck's longevity. As Engineer Fix notes, these 660cc engines are built to reach 100,000 to 150,000+ miles with proper maintenance. The key phrase is "proper maintenance," and it starts the day the truck arrives.

Do not drive it hard, do not take it on the highway, and do not pile miles on it until the service is done. A 25 year old timing belt does not care that the odometer only reads 40,000 km. It cares that it has been baking in engine heat for a quarter century. Parts sourcing for filters, belts, and fluids is covered in the maintenance guide linked above.

The Bottom Line

The gap between "my kei truck just arrived" and "my kei truck is ready to use" is about one week of focused work. The delivery day checklist keeps you from accepting a damaged truck, driving on unsafe systems, or discovering paperwork problems at the DMV. The full service that follows keeps the engine alive for another decade.

Photograph it, verify it, test it, document it. Then park it and do the maintenance. The mods, the accessories, and the Instagram photos can wait. The boring stuff comes first, and the boring stuff is what separates a kei truck that runs for 200,000 km from one that overheats and dies in the first season.