how-toFebruary 9, 2026by Carmanji

Kei Truck Dump Bed: Factory Dump vs Aftermarket Conversion (Full Breakdown)

Factory dump kei trucks from Japan are purpose-built workhorses, but aftermarket hydraulic conversion kits let you add dump capability to any flatbed. Here's what each option actually costs, lifts, and requires.

Kei Truck Dump Bed: Factory Dump vs Aftermarket Conversion

There is a moment — usually about thirty seconds into shoveling a half-yard of gravel out of a flatbed by hand — when every kei truck owner arrives at the same thought: I need a dump bed.

A kei truck dump bed transforms a capable little hauler into something genuinely indispensable on a farm, homestead, or job site. Hydraulically tipping 700+ pounds of mulch, topsoil, or firewood out the back in ten seconds changes how you plan your entire day. No more raking. No more back pain.

You have two paths: buy a factory dump kei truck imported from Japan, or convert your existing flatbed with an aftermarket hydraulic kit. Both work. Both have tradeoffs. And neither is as expensive as you probably think.

Factory Dump Kei Trucks: What Japan Already Built

Here is something that surprises most American buyers: Japanese manufacturers have been building factory dump kei trucks for decades. Suzuki, Daihatsu, Honda, Mitsubishi, and Subaru all produced kei trucks with hydraulic dump beds straight from the assembly line. At any given time, over 1,500 dump-equipped kei trucks sit in Japanese auctions waiting for buyers.

Factory dump trucks come in three configurations:

Tipper Dump (rear dump): The most common setup. The bed hinges at the rear and tips backward. Simple, proven, effective for 90% of use cases.

Three-Way Dump: Tips to dump from the rear, left, or right side. Wildly practical in tight spaces — farmers working narrow paths between crop rows or dumping alongside a retaining wall love these. They command a premium, but the versatility is real.

Scissor Lift Dump: The rarest and priciest. A scissor mechanism raises the entire bed vertically — roughly 7 feet off the ground — for loading onto elevated surfaces. Flip the lever and it functions as a standard rear tipper. A 1999 Suzuki Carry scissor lift dump sold on Bring a Trailer for $16,250 in October 2024 — well above comparable flatbed Carry pricing.

Factory Models Worth Knowing

Suzuki Carry: The Kintaro Dump ("Golden Boy") features an exceptionally long 1.9-meter dump bed — Suzuki claims the longest in the kei truck class. Available with 4WD, 5-speed manual with locking diff or 3-speed auto, and electro-hydraulic dump. The Sturdy Dump adds reinforced pillars, thicker steel plating, and a cab guard frame.

Daihatsu Hijet: Split into LD (Light Duty) and HD (Heavy Duty) variants. The HD dumps up to 1,500 lbs with a 6'2" bed using the KF-type 3-cylinder EFI engine. The key distinction: the HD offers a choice between electro-hydraulic and PTO (power take-off) mechanisms, while the LD is electro-hydraulic only.

Honda Acty, Subaru Sambar, and Mitsubishi Minicab all offered dump variants too. The Sambar stands out for specialty options including scissor/dump combos and lift gates. If parts availability matters to you, stick with the Carry or Hijet — they are the most widely supported.

What Factory Dump Trucks Cost

  • Imported from Japan directly: $5,500–$8,500 at auction, plus $1,000–$4,000 in shipping/import fees. A mid-2000s dump truck with 4WD and under 100,000 km lands in the $8,000–$12,000 range delivered. Importers like Duncan Imports and Minitrucks.net regularly stock them.
  • From a US dealer: $10,000–$20,000+ depending on markup and condition. Woodys Mini Trucks lists dump/scissor trucks starting around $17,950.
  • Scissor lift models: Add $3,000–$8,000 premium over a comparable tipper.
  • Brand-new (2025/2026): A new Suzuki Carry starts around $7,500 in Japan (base model). Expect $20,000–$25,000+ landed in the US for a new dump truck.

The sweet spot for most buyers: a 25+ year old import (legal under the 25-year rule) with 4WD and a rear tipper — $8,000 to $12,000 all-in. Less than a quality UTV, and street-legal in most states.

PTO vs Electro-Hydraulic: A Quick Primer

This affects both factory trucks and conversion kits, so it is worth understanding before you shop.

Electro-Hydraulic: A 12V electric pump drives the hydraulic cylinder. Self-contained, simple wiring, works with the engine off. The downsides: slower cycle times, weaker lift, and significant battery drain (200–300 amps per cycle). Most aftermarket kits and most factory dumps use this system.

PTO (Power Take-Off): A mechanical drive off the transmission powers the pump directly. Much more powerful, faster (8 seconds to full dump with a heavy load), zero battery drain, and essentially lasts forever. The tradeoff: more complex, engine must be running, and you cannot dump while driving.

Bottom line: Electro-hydraulic is fine for a few dumps per day. PTO is the heavy-duty choice for all-day operations. Almost every aftermarket kit is electro-hydraulic. If you want PTO, buy a factory dump truck like the Hijet HD.

Aftermarket Dump Bed Conversion Kits

The path most existing kei truck owners take. The market ranges from purpose-built kei truck kits to universal pickup truck kits that can be adapted.

Kei Truck-Specific Kits

Mini4x4 Dump Box Kit (~$1,200) [AFFILIATE: Mini4x4 Dump Box Conversion Kit, ~$1,200, mini4x4.ca] The most talked-about kei truck-specific option. Available for the Suzuki Carry DA63T and other models, this kit includes the hydraulic pump, cylinder, remote control, and installation instructions. The catch: welding is required. This is not a bolt-on kit. Ships from Canada worldwide.

Twin Ridge Lawn & Garden Dump Bed Kit [AFFILIATE: Twin Ridge Dump Bed Kit, ~price varies, trlawnandgarden.com] A self-contained unit with a steel subframe and aluminum dump bed with preinstalled hydraulics. Fasten it to your existing bed, connect two wires to the battery, done. Includes a 10-foot corded remote and two-way pressure cylinder for controlled descent. Kits available for both pre-1999 and post-1999 bed sizes. Contact (717) 436-8518 for current pricing.

Adaptable Universal Kits

Primary Mover Dump Bed Kits ($1,199–$2,800) [AFFILIATE: Primary Mover Telescopic Dump Kit, ~$1,199–$2,800, primarymover.com] Telescopic, direct push, and scissor hoist options. Smallest kits (8-foot body) are the starting point for kei trucks, but you will need custom mounting brackets for the narrower frame. All include 12V pump and 3-year hoist warranty. Available on Amazon and direct.

Scissor Hoist Kits on Amazon ($600–$2,500+) [AFFILIATE: Hydraulic Scissor Hoist Dump Kit, ~$600–$2,500, Amazon] A range of scissor hoist kits from various manufacturers. The 10-ton PF-520-PK kit comes with 12V pump, solar charger, and flow control valve. Way more capacity than a kei truck needs, but the scissor mechanism provides stable, even lifting. Requires modifying mounting points to fit the smaller bed footprint.

Pierce Arrow Dump Kits [AFFILIATE: Pierce Arrow Factory Bed Dump Kit, ~varies, piercearrowinc.com] Built in Henrietta, TX since 1976. Their 2-ton kit delivers 4,000 lbs lift with a 45-degree tilt, dumping in about 10 seconds. Includes a Bucher pump and cylinder tested at 4,500 psi. Vehicle-specific for American trucks, so fitting one to a kei truck requires custom fab — but the quality and 30-year track record are hard to beat.

Budget kits from Alibaba/China ($350–$600): They exist. Quality varies wildly. If you go this route, pressure-test the cylinder and keep a rebuild kit on hand.

Weight Capacity: What Can You Actually Dump?

Expectations need a reality check here.

Kei trucks are regulated to a payload capacity of 350 kg (roughly 770 lbs) at speeds up to 50 mph. Some models handle up to 500 kg (1,100 lbs) at lower speeds, but 350 kg is the official number.

What that means in practice:

  • The dump kit itself eats payload. Hydraulic kit, cylinder, pump, and subframe add 100–200 lbs. A 770 lb rated truck with a 150 lb kit has ~620 lbs of actual dumping capacity.
  • A yard of topsoil weighs ~2,200 lbs. A realistic load is a third to half a yard — 700–1,100 lbs — which pushes or exceeds rated capacity.
  • Split firewood filling the bed to the rails: 500–800 lbs depending on species. Right in the sweet spot.
  • Mulch and wood chips are light enough to fill the bed and stay under capacity.

Most owners regularly exceed 770 lbs, especially with dump beds. The trucks handle it at low speed on private property. Just understand you are over-spec, upgrade your brakes, and stay off public roads when overloaded.

DIY vs Professional Install

A dump bed conversion is an intermediate-level project. Not light-bar simple, not engine-swap complex.

DIY requires: A MIG welder, basic hand tools, floor jack, drill, understanding of 12V electrical, and a free weekend (16–24 hours for a first-timer per Pierce Arrow's estimate). The process is straightforward — remove bed, install hinges and cylinder mount, reinstall bed, run hydraulics and wiring, test.

Where DIYers get into trouble: Hinge misalignment causing the bed to bind. Inadequate frame reinforcement at the cylinder mount point (this takes enormous force on a light kei truck frame). Undersized wiring for the pump's amperage draw — use at least 4-gauge and run the ground directly to the battery. Fuel filler neck interference on some models. A user on MiniTruckTalk cautioned that kei truck beds are "not very sturdy nor engineered in strength for such operations without considerable modification."

DIY total cost: $1,200–$2,500 for kit plus materials.

Professional install: Any welding/fabrication shop can do this — you do not need a specialist. Labor runs $500–$1,500 depending on location and kit complexity. Total with kit: $1,700–$4,000. Most shops finish in one to two days.

If you own a welder and have used it on a vehicle frame before, the Mini4x4 kit and a weekend is a legitimate DIY project. If welding is not your thing, pay a shop. This is not the project to learn on — the consequences of a bad mount involve a 700 lb bed launching off the back of your truck. Search YouTube for kei truck dump bed installs to gauge your comfort level.

Factory vs Conversion: The Quick Comparison

FactorFactory DumpAftermarket Conversion
Cost$8,000–$20,000+ (whole truck)$1,200–$4,000 (kit + install)
MechanismElectro-hydraulic or PTOElectro-hydraulic only
BedReinforced steel, purpose-builtStock bed with added hydraulics
Dump directionsRear, 3-way, or scissorRear only (most kits)
ReliabilityFactory-engineeredDepends on kit and install quality
Best forBuying your first kei truckAlready own a flatbed kei truck

Buy factory if: You do not own a kei truck yet and want dump capability. The integrated engineering and PTO option are worth the premium. Use Duncan Imports or import through a broker like Oiwa. The r/keitruck subreddit has solid importer recommendations.

Convert if: You already own a Carry, Hijet, or another kei truck. The Mini4x4 kit at $1,200 is the most cost-effective path with welding skills. Twin Ridge is the easier install with prebuilt hydraulics.

Bottom Line

A kei truck dump bed is one of the highest-value upgrades you can make to a working kei truck. It takes a vehicle already better than a UTV for most property work and removes the biggest pain point: unloading by hand.

Factory dump trucks from Japan land at $8,000–$12,000 delivered, with configurations (three-way dump, scissor lift, PTO) that aftermarket kits cannot replicate. If you are still shopping, start with a factory dump.

Aftermarket kits start at $1,200. Professional install adds $500–$1,500. Total conversion: $1,700–$4,000 — reasonable for the capability gained.

Either way, the next time you pull up to a pile of gravel, you hit a button instead of grabbing a shovel. That alone is worth it.

For related reading, check our guides on the best kei truck for farming and kei truck snow plow setups. Still deciding on a model? Browse our dealer directory or read MotorTrend's take on the most popular kei trucks hitting the US market.

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